Compiled by Ina Asim, March 2019

This bibliography is organized in four sections:

  1. Collecting (Refers to collecting as passion and profession; collecting art in private and museum collections)
  2. Silk - History - Garments - Design - Patterns - Products - Trade
  3. Textile Technology - Conservation - Terminology
  4. Sericulture - Agriculture - Silk Industry - Silk Production



Cohen, Warren I., East Asian Art and American Culture. A Study in International Relations. New York: Columbia University Press, 1992.

Gerritsen, Anne and Giorgio Riello (eds.), The Global Lives of Things. The material culture of connections in the early modern world. London, New York: Routledge, 2016.

Hong, Zaixin, “An Entrepreneur in an ‘Adventurer’s Paradise’: Star Talbot and His Innovative Contributions to the Art Business of Modern Shanghai”, in: Jennifer Purtle and Hans Bjarne Thomson (eds.), Looking Modern. East Asian Visual Culture from Treaty Ports to World War II. Chicago: Center for the Art of East Asia. Art Media Resources, Chicago: 2009, 85-105.

Lawton, Thomas, A Time of Transition: two collectors of Chinese art. Lawrence: Spencer Museum of Art, University of Kansas, 1991.

Lee, Sonya S., “Introduction: Ideas of Asia in the Museum”, in Journal of the History of Collections, vo. 28 no. 3 (2016), 359-366.

McAleer, John, “Objects of Empire: Museums, Material Culture, and Histories of Empire”, in: Anne Gerritsen and Giorgio Riello (eds.), Writing Material Culture History. London: Bloomsbury Academic, 2015, 249-255.

Metrick-Chen, Lenore, Collecting Objects / Excluding People. Chinese Subjects and American Visual Culture, 1830-1900. Albany: State University of New York Press, 2012.

Meyer, Karl E. and Shareen Blair Brysac, The China Collectors. America’s Century-Long Hunt for Asian Art Treasures. New York: Palgrave McMillan, 2015.

Netting, Lara Jaishree, A Perpetual Fire. John C. Ferguson and His Quest for Chinese Art and Culture. Hong Kong: Hong Kong University Press 2013.

David A. Robertson (ed.), Precious Cargo: The Legacy of Gertrude Bass Warner. Eugene: University of Oregon Museum of Art, 1997.

Yoshihara, Mari, Embracing the East: White Women and American Orientalism. Oxford, New York: Oxford University Press, 2003.

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Silk – History – Design – Patterns – Products – Trade

Agrawal, Yashodhara, Silk Brocades. New Dehli: Roli Books, 2004.

Anon., Clothed to rule the Universe. Ming and Qing Dynasty Textiles at The Art Institute of Chicago. Seattle: The Art Institute of Chicago in association with Washington University Press, 2000.

Anon., 宋元明織繡名品展Chinese Textile Masterpieces Sung, Yuan and Ming Dynasties. Hong Kong: Plum Blossoms (Int’l) Ltd., 1988. [Exhibition catalogue; exhibition Hong Kong October 25 to November 3, 1988]

Anquetil, Jacques, Silk. Paris, New York: Flammarion, 1995. 

Bao Ming Xin 包铭新, Jindai zhongguo nanzhuang shilu 近代中国男装实录 (The Chinese Men’s Wear in Late Qing Dynasty and Republic Period). Shanghai: Donghua daxue chubanshe, 2008.

Bolton, Andrew with John Galliano, Adam Geczy, Maxwell K. Hearn, Homay King, Harold Koda, Mei Mei Rado, and Wong Karwei, China Through the Looking Glass. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2015.

Alexandra B. Bonds. Beijing Opera Costumes: The Visual Communication of Character and Culture. New York & London: Routledge, 2018.

Brook, Timothy, The Confusions of Pleasure. Oakland: University of California Press, 1999.

Brown, Claudia, Robert D. Mowry, et al., Weaving China's Past: The Amy S. Clague Collection of Chinese Textiles. Phoenix: Phoenix Art Museum 2000.

Cammann, Schuyler, China’s Dragon Robes. Chicago: Art Media Resources. Reprint of the original edition published by The Ronald Press Company, 1952.

Chambers, Marlene; Carol Rawlings; and Margaret Ritchie. Secret Splendors of The Chinese Court: Qing Dynasty Costume from the Charlotte Hill Grant Collection. Denver, Colorado: Denver Art Museum, 1981.

Chen, BuYun, Empire of Style. Silk & Fashion in Tang China. Seattle: University of Washington Press 2019.

Chen Juanjuan and Huang Nengfu, “Textile Art of the Qing Dynasty”, in Kuhn, Dieter (ed.), Chinese Silks. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2012, 430-489.

Chen Gaohua 陈高华and Xu Gujun 徐吉军(eds.), Zhongguo fushi tongshi. 中国服饰通史 (Comprehensive History of Chinese Clothing). Ningbo: Ningbo chubanshe, 2002.

Cheng Wen-chien. The Forbidden City: Inside the Court of China’s Emperors. Toronto, Canada: Royal Ontario Museum, 2014.

Clunas, Craig, Pictures and Visuality in Early Modern China. Princeton: Princeton University Press 1998.

Crill, Rosemary; Jennifer Warden; and Verity Wilson; with contributions from Anna Jackson; and Charlotte Horlyck. World Dress: Fashion in Detail. South Kensington, London: V & A Publishing, 2009.

Crowin, Bonnie; with Contributions from John Vollmer; Valerie Foley; Dale Gluckman; Gill Green; Sumru Belger Krody; Pramod Kumar; Linda Mclntosh; Mariah Waworuntu; and Zhao Feng. Textiles Asia Journal. Vol. 4, Issue 3. Hong Kong, China: Textiles Asia, 2013.

Dauncey, Sarah, “Illusions of Grandeur: Perceptions of Status and Wealth in Late Ming Female Clothing and Ornamentation”, in: East Asian History, Number 25/26, June/December 2003, 43-68.

Dickinson, Gary, and Linda Wrigglesworth. Imperial Wardrobe. Berkeley, California: Ten Speed Press, 2000.

Dubosc, Jean-Pierre, “A Contribution to the Study of Song Tapestries”. Orientations, Vol. 20, No. 8, August 1989, 82-86.

Dunlevy, Mairead, Pomp and Poverty: A History of Silk in Ireland. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2011.

Dusenbury, Mary M.; with an essay by Carol Bier. Flowers, Dragons and Pine Trees: Asian Textiles in the Spencer Museum of Art. Manchester, Vermont: Hudson Hill Press LLC, 2004.

Federico, Giovanni, An economic history of the silk industry. Cambridge, New York: Cambridge University Press, 1997.

Feltwell, John, The Story of Silk. New York: St. Martin's Press, 1991.

Fircks, Juliane von, and Regula Schorta (eds.), Oriental Silks in Medieval Europe. Riggisberg: Abbegg Stiftung, 2016. [Riggisberger Berichte, 21]

Fong, Grace, “Female Hands: Embroidery as a Knowledge Field in Women’s Everyday Life in Late Imperial and Early Republican China”, Late Imperial China, Vol. 25, Number 1, June 2004, 1-58. DOI: ; accessed 12/14/2018.

Franses, Michael, Textile Art from the Silk Road. Part 1: Silk embroideries, brocades and tapestries, AD 900-1600. London: The Textile Gallery, 1998.

Gao, Chunming, with a foreword by John Vollmer. Exquisite Fabrics: Traditional Weaving and Embroidery Patterns in China. New York; and Shanghai, China: Better Link Press; and Shanghai Press and Publishing Development Company, 2010.

Gao Hanyu, Chinese Textile Designs. (Original title: Zhongguo Lidai Zhi Ran Xiu Tulu 中国历代织染绣图录. Published by The Commercial Press, Ltd. Hong Kong Branch, 1986.) Translated by Rosemary Scott and Susan Whitfield. Viking – Penguin 1992.

Garrett, Valery. Chinese Dress from the Qing Dynasty to the Present. Vermont: Tuttle Publishing, 2007.

Garrett, Valery. Traditional Chinese Clothing in Hong Kong and South China, 1840-1980. New York: Oxford University Press Inc., 1987.

Geijer, Agnes, A History of Textile Art: a selective account. London: Pasold Research Fund in association with Sotheby Parke Bernet, 1982.

Haig, Paul; and Marla Shelton. Threads of Gold: Chinese Textiles Ming to Ch’ing. Atglen, Pennsylvania: Schiffer Publishing Ltd., 2006.

Heraldova, Helena, “The Dragon Robe as the Professional Dress of the Qing Dynasty Scholar-Official”, in Annals of the Nárpstek Museum 37/2, 2016, 49-72.

Hildebrandt, Berit with Carole Gillis (eds.), Silk. Trade and Exchange along the Silk Roads between Rome and China in Antiquity. Oxford, Philadelphia: Oxbow books, 2017.

Hua Mei, Chinese Clothing: Costumes, Adornments and Culture. Beijing: China International Publishing Group, 2004.

Huang, I-Fen,” Gender, Technical Innovation, and Gu Family Embroidery in Late-Ming Shanghai”, in: East Asian Science, Technology, and Medicine, 1 January 2012,  Special Issue on Women and Textile Production Techniques in Traditional China, 77-129.

Huang Nengxia 黄能馥, Chen Juanjuan 陈娟娟, Zhongguo li pao 中国礼炮 (Chinese Imperial Robes). Guilin: Lijiang chubanshe 2006.

Ierusalumskaja, Anna and Birgit Borkopp (ed.), Von China nach Byzanz. Frühmittelalterliche Seiden aus der Staatlichen Ermitage St. Petersburg. München: Bayerisches Nationalmuseum, 1996.

Jackson, Beverly; and David Hugus, Ph.D. Ladder to the Clouds: Intrigue and Tradition in Chinese Rank. Berkeley, California: Ten Speed Press, 1999.

Jacobsen, Robert. Imperial Silks: Ch’ing Dynasty Textiles in The Minneapolis Institute of Arts. Vol I. Minneapolis, Minnesota: The Minneapolis Institute of Arts, 2000.

Kirkham, Pat; and Susan Weber. History of Design: Decorative Arts and Material Culture 1400-2000. New Haven and London: Yale University Press, 2013.

Ko, Dorothy, “Between the Boudoir and the Global Market: Shen Shou, Embroidery, and Modernity at the Turn of the Twentieth Century”, in: Jennifer Purtle and Hans Bjarne Thomson (eds.), Looking Modern. East Asian Visual Culture from Treaty Ports to World War II. Chicago: Center for the Art of East Asia. Art Media Resources, Chicago: 2009, 38-61.

Ko, Dorothy, Every Step a Lotus: Shoes for Bound Feet. Oakland: University of California Press 2001.

Ko, Dorothy, Teachers of the Inner Chambers. Women and Culture in Seventeenth Century China. Stanford: Stanford University Press 1995.

Kuhn, Dieter (ed.), Chinese Silks. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2012. Chinese edition edited by Zhao Feng.

LaFleur, Elizabeth, “Two Innovative Chinese Embroiderers”, in: Piecework, Nov/Dec2001, Vol. 9 Issue 6, 54.

Laumann, S.SP.S., Maryta M., The Secret of Excellence in Ancient Chinese Silks. Factors Contributing to the Extraordinary Development of Textile Design and Technology Achieved in Ancient China. Taipei: Southern Materials Center, 1984.

Li Yuhang, “Representing Theatricality on Textiles”, in: Zeitlin, Judith and Yuhang Li, Performing Images. Opera in Chinese Visual Culture. Chicago: University of Chicago Press 2014, 74-85.

Li Suimei 李穗梅and Sally Yu Leung 余翠雁 (eds.), Tong fu li de gushi童服里的故事Hidden Meanings in Chinese Children’s Clothing and Accessories. Guangzhou: Guangzhou chubanshe 2010. [bilingual]

Liu Xinru, Silk and Religion. An Exploration of Material Life and the Thought of People, 600-1200. Dehli: Oxford University Press 1996.

Mailey, Jean, China House Gallery: Embroidery of Imperial China. New York: China Institute of America. 1978.

Mailey, Jean, The Manchu Dragon. Costumes of the Ch’ing dynasty, 1644-1912. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of art. 1980.

Mellott, Richard L.; Patricia Berger; and Terese Bartholomew. Asian Embroideries. San Francisco, California: Asian Art Museum of San Francisco, 1988.

Miao Liangyun 缪良云(comp.), 中国古代丝绸纹样 (China’s Silk Patterns Through the Ages). Suzhou: Fangzhi gongye chuban she. 1988.

Miao Liangyun 缪良云(ed.), Zhongguo yijing 中国衣经 (Compendium of China’s Clothing). Shanghai: Shanghai wenhua chubanshe 2000.

Natschläger, Helga, Universum in Seide. Roben der Qing Dynastie (1644-1911) aus der Sammlung des Österreichischen Museums für Angewandte Kunst. Graz, 1987.

Rothstein, Natalie, Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century in the Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum. Boston: Little, Brown, 1990.

Rutherford, Judith and Jackie Menzies, Celestial Silks. Chinese Religious and Court Textiles. Sidney: Art Gallery of New South Wales, 2004.

Peck, Amelia (ed.), Interwoven Globe. The Worldwide Textile Trade, 1500-1800. With contributions by Amy Bogansky, Joyce Denney, John Guy, Maria Joao Pacheco Ferreira, Elena Phipps, Marika Sardar, Cynthia V.A. Schaffner, Kristen Stewart, and Melinda Watt. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2013.

Peck, Amelia, “’India Chintz’ and ‘China Taffaty’. East India Company Textiles for the North American Market”. In: Peck, Amelia (ed.), Interwoven Globe. The Worldwide Textile Trade, 1500-1800. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2013, 104-119.

Piontek-Ma, Elke, Der Bericht von Sun Pei über die kaiserliche Seidenmanufaktur von Suzhou im 17. Jahrhundert. Heidelberg: edition forum, 1999. [Würzburger Sinologische Schriften]

Priest, Alan, Imperial Robes and Textiles of the Chinese Court. Minneapolis, Minnesota: The Minneapolis Institute of Arts, 1943.

Research Studio of the Northeast Drama Institute People’s Republic of China. Traditional Chinese Textile Designs in Full Color. Mineola, New York: Dover Publication, Inc., 1980.

Riboud, Krishna, and John E. Vollmer with Alexandra Lorquin, Chinese Costume and Accessories, 17th-20th Century. Paris: Association pour l’Étude de la Documentation des Textiles d’Asie, 1999.

Roberts, Claire. Evolution and Revolution: Chinese Dress 1700s-1900s. Australia: Powerhouse Publishing, 2002.

Rossen, Susan. Clothed to Rule the Universe: Ming and Qing Dynasty Textiles at the Art Institute of Chicago. Vol. 26, No. 2. Chicago, Illinois: The Art Institute of Chicago, 2000.

Schäfer, Dagmar, Des Kaisers neue Kleider. Staatliche Seidenmanufakturen in der Ming-Zeit. (1368-1644). Heidelberg: edition forum, 1998. [Würzburger Sinologische Schriften]

Schäfer, Dagmar, Dieter Kuhn, Weaving an Economic Pattern in Ming Times (1368-1644): The Production of Silk Weaves in the State-Owned Silk Workshops. Heidelberg: edition forum 2002. [Würzburger Sinologische Schriften]

Scott, Philippa, The Book of Silk. London: Thames and Hudson 1993.

Shih Min-hsiung, The Silk Industry in Ch’ing China, transl. E-Tu Zen Sun. Ann Arbor, Mich.: Center for Chinese Studies. University of Michigan, 1976.

Shi Shenghan 石声汉, Zhongguo gu dai nong shu ping jie 中国古代农书评介 (Explanation of the Ancient Chinese ‘Treatise on Agriculture’). Beijing: Nongye chubanshe, 1980.

Silberstein, Rachel, “Eight Scenes of Suzhou: Landscape Embroidery, Urban Courtesans, and Nineteenth-Century Chinese Women’s Fashions”, in: Late Imperial China, 2015, Vol. 36(1), 1-52.

Silberstein, Rachel, “Cloud Collars and Sleeve Bands: Commercial Embroidery and the Fashionable Accessory in Mid-to-Late Qing China”, in: Fashion Theory, 05/04/2017, Vol.21(3), 245-277.

Silberstein, Rachel, “Fashionable Figures: Narrative Roundels and Narrative Borders in Nineteenth-Century Han Chinese Women’s Dress”, in: Costume, 01/2016, Vol.50(1), 63-89.

Till, Barry. Silk Splendor: Textiles of Late Imperial China 1644-1911. British Columbia, Canada: The Art Gallery of Greater Victoria, 2012.

Tong Wen’e 童文娥 (ed.), Kezhi fenghua: Songdai kesi huaniao zhantu lu緙織風華: 宋代緙絲花鳥展圖錄. (Weaving a Tapestry of Splendors. Bird and Flower Tapestries of the Song Dynasty). Taipei: National Palace Museum, 2009.

Vainker, Shelagh. Chinese Silk: A Cultural History. Great Britain; and New Brunswick, New Jersey: The British Museum Press; in association with Rutgers University Press, 2004.

Vollmer, John. Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Vol. 6. New York: Oxford University Press, 2010.

Vollmer, John E.; and Jaqueline Simcox. Selections from the Mactaggart Art Collection: Emblems of Empire. Edmonton, Canada: The University of Alberta Press; and The University of Alberta Museums, 2009.

Vollmer, John, Dressed to Rule: 18th Century Court Attire in the Mactaggart Art Collection. Edmonton, Canada: University of Alberta Museums; and University of Alberta Press, 2007.

Vollmer, John, Silks for Thrones and Altars: Chinese Costumes and Textiles from the Liao through the Qing dynasty. —: Myrna Myers, 2003.

Vollmer, John. Ruling from the Dragon Throne: Costume of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). Berkeley, California: Ten Speed Press, 2002.

Vollmer, John. Decoding Dragons: Status Garments in Ch’ing Dynasty China. Eugene, Oregon: University of Oregon Museum of Art, 1983.

Vollmer, John. Five Colours of the Universe: Symbolism in Clothes and Fabrics of the Ch’ing Dynasty (1644-1911). Toronto:  The Edmonton Art Gallery, 1981.

Vollmer, John E., In the Presence of the Dragon Throne. Ch’ing Dynasty Costume (1644-1911) in the Royal Ontario Museum. Toronto: Royal Ontario Museum, 1977.

Vollmer, John E., Ruling from the Dragon Throne. Costume of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). Berkeley: Ten Speed Press, 2002.

Wang Baolin 王宝林, Yunjin 云锦 (Cloud Brocade). Hangzhou: Zhejiang renmin chuban she, 2008.

Wang Zhimin 王智敏, Longpao龍袍 (Dragon Robes). Taipei: Meishu tushu gongsi 1994.

Wang, Yarong, Chinese Embroidery. Tokyo, New York: Kodansha International/ USA Ltd., 1987.

Watt, Melinda,” ’Whims and Fancies’. Europeans Respond to Textiles from the East”. In: Peck, Amelia (ed.), Interwoven Globe. The Worldwide Textile Trade, 1500-1800. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2013, 83-103.

Watt, James C. Y., Anne Wardwell. With an essay by Morris Rossabi. When Silk was Gold. Central Asian and Chinese Textiles. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art in cooperation with the Cleveland Museum of Art. 1997.

Westphal, Katherine, Dragons and Other Creatures: Chinese Embroideries of the Ch’ing Dynasty. Berkeley, California: Lancaster–Miller Publishers, 1979.

Wilson, Ming and The Palace Museum, Beijing. Imperial Chinese Robes: from the Forbidden City. South Kensington, London: V & A Publishing, 2010.

Wilson, Verity, Chinese Textiles: Victoria and Albert Museum Far Eastern Series. South Kensington, London: V & A Publishing, 2005.

Wilson, Verity, “Cosmic Raiment: Daoist Traditions of Liturgical Clothing”, in: Orientations 5(1995), 42-49.

Wong Hwei Lian and Szan Tan, Powerdressing. Textiles for Rulers and Priests from the Chris Hall Collection. Singapore: Asian Civilisations Museum 2006.

Work Unit for the Exhibition of Archaeological Artifacts at the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region Museum (ed.), Sichou zhi lu丝绸之路 – Han Tang zhiwu 汉唐织物. (The Silk Road -Woven Objects from Han to Tang). Beijing: Wenwu chubanshe 1973.

Yang Li 楊力, Zhongguo sichou 中國絲綢 (Chinese Silk). Taipei: Shuxing chubanshe, 1993.

Yang Shaorong. Traditional Chinese Clothing: Costumes, Adornments and Culture. San Francisco, California: Long River Press; in association with Shanghai People’s Fine Arts Publishing House, 2004.

Zanier, Claudio, Where the Roads Met. East and West in the Silk Production Processes (17th to 19th Century). Kyoto: Istituto Italiano di Cultura Scuola di Studi sull’Asia Orientale, 1994. [Italian School of East Asian Studies Occasional Papers 5]

Zeitlin, Judith and Yuhang Li, Performing Images. Opera in Chinese Visual Culture. Chicago: University of Chicago Press 2014.

Zhao Feng 赵丰and Zhizhong Yu 于志勇(eds.), Legacy of the Desert King. Textiles and Treasures Excavated at Niya on the Silk Road (沙漠王子遗产). Hangzhou: China National Silk Museum; Urumqi: Xinjiang Institute of Archaeology. 2000.

Zhao Feng 赵丰, 中国丝绸艺术史 (Zhongguo Sichou yishu shi; A History of Chinese Silk Art). Beijing: Wenwu chubanshe 2005.

Zhao Feng赵丰(ed.), Zhongguo sichou yishu中国丝绸艺术 (Chinese Silks). Beijing: Waiwen chubanshe北京外文出版社. 2012.

Zhu Xinyu 朱新予, Zhongguo sichou shi (tonglun) 中国丝绸史(通论), The Comprehensive History of China’s Silk Road. Beijing: Fangzhi gongye chubanshe. 1992.

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Textile Technology – Conservation – Terminology

Burnham, Dorothy K., Warp and Weft. A Textile Terminology. Toronto: Royal Ontario Museum, 1980.

Centre International D‘Etude Des Textiles Anciens (C.I.E.T.A.), Vocabulary of Technical Terms. Fabrics.  Lyon, 1964.

Cheng, Weiji (chief compiler), History of Textile Technology of Ancient China. New York: Science Press 1992.

Commoner, Lucy A., “Warning Signs: When Textiles Need Conservation.” In: Bachmann, Konstanze (ed.), Conservation Concerns. A Guide for Collectors and Curators. Washington: Smithsonian Books, 1992, 85-90.

Commoner, Lucy A., “Storage Containers for Textile Collections”. In: Bachmann, Konstanze (ed.), Conservation Concerns. A Guide for Collectors and Curators. Washington: Smithsonian Books, 1992, 91-96.

Du Halde, S.J., Jean-Baptiste, und mit einer Einleitung von Mario Bussagli, Seide und Baumwolle in Mandschu-China. Mailand: Franco Maria Ricci, Genf: Weber, 1980.

Emery, Irene, The Primary Structure of Fabrics. New York: Thames and Hudson, in collaboration with The Textile Museum 2009.

Fan Jinmin范金民, Jin Wen 金文, Jiangnan sichou shi yanjiu  江南丝绸史研究 (Studies in the History of Jiangnan Silk). Beijing: Nongye chubanshe 1993.

Giuntini, Christine, “Storage of Historic Fabrics and Costumes.” In: Bachmann, Konstanze (ed.), Conservation Concerns. A Guide for Collectors and Curators. Washington: Smithsonian Books, 1992, 69-78.

Gao Hanyu, Chinese Textile Designs. Translated by Rosemary Scott and Susan Whitfield. London: Viking Press 1992

Hoffmann, Marta, The Warp-Weighted Loom. Studies in the History and Technology of an Ancient Implement. Oslo: The Norwegian Research Council for Science and the Humanities 1974.

Kuhn, Dieter, „Medieval Chinese Silk Fabrics: Technical Versatility and Puzzling Terminology”, in: Fircks, Juliane von, and Regula Schorta (eds.), Oriental Silks in Medieval Europe. Riggisberg: Abbegg Stiftung, 2016, 7-27. [Riggisberger Berichte, 21]

Kuhn, Dieter, ”Die Kunst der Seidenherstellung im alten China.“ In: Auslandsgesellschaft Nordrhein-Westfalen e.V. (ed.), Dokumentation: Zweite China-Akademie. Dortmund: Wulff, 1994.

Kuhn, Dieter, Zur Webstuhltechnologie im alten China. (Translation with commentary of 中国纺织科学技术史(古代部分) Zhongguo fangzhi kexue jishu shi (gudai bu fen). Heidelberg: edition forum 1990. [Würzburger Sinologische Schriften]

Kuhn, Dieter, Textile Technology: Spinning and Reeling. Vol. 5 (Chemistry and Chemical Technology), Part IX of Joseph Needham, Science and Civilisation in China. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press 1988.

Laumann, Maryta M. S. Sp.S. [羅麥瑞] (ed.), 圖解服飾辭典 Tujie fushi cidian (Illustrated Fashion Dictionary). Taipei: Furen daxue ligong xueyuanzhipin fuzhuang xuexi, 1996.

Mailand, Harlod F. and Dorothy Stites Alig, Preserving Textiles: A Guide for The Nonspecialist. Indianapolis, Indiana: Indianapolis Museum of Art, 1999.

Nara National Museum, Yomiuri Telecasting Corporation, and Nikkei Inc., Threads of Devotion: National Treasure: The Taima Mandala Tapestry and Embroidered Buddhist Imagery. Special Exhibition Commemorating the Completion of Conservation Work. Nara: Nara National Museum 2018.

Oelsner, Hermann, G. [b. 1845], translated and revised by Samuel S. Dale [b. 1859], A Handbook of Weaves. New York: Dover Publications 1952. [Republication of the original edition published by the Macmillan Company, 1915].

Orlofsky, Patsy, “Textile Conservation.” In: Bachmann, Konstanze (ed.), Conservation Concerns. A Guide for Collectors and Curators. Washington: Smithsonian Books, 1992, 79-83.

Phipps, Elena, Looking at Textiles. A Guide to Technical Terms. Los Angeles: The Paul Getty Museum, 2011.

Schweppe, Helmut, Handbuch der Naturfarbstoffe. Vorkommen, Verwendung, Nachweis. Hamburg: Nikol Verlagsgesellschaft mbH & Co. KG, 1993.

Seiler-Baldinger, Annemarie, Systematik der Textilen Techniken. Basel: Ethnologisches Seminar und Museum für Völkerkunde der Universität Basel, 1991.

Sheng, Angela, “Chinese Silks circulated among peoples north and west: implications for technological exchange in early times?”, in Hildebrandt, Berit with Carole Gillis (eds.), Silk. Trade and Exchange along the Silk Roads between Rome and China in Antiquity. Oxford, Philadelphia: Oxbow books, 2017, 104-123.

Scheng, Angela, “The Disappearance of Silk Weaves with Weft Effects in Early China”, in: Chinese Science, No. 12 (1995), 41-76.

Wu Shusheng吳淑生, Tian Zibing 田自秉, Zhongguo zhiran shi 中國織染史(A History of Dyeing in China). Taipei: Nantian shuju 1988.

Xu Zhongjie许仲杰, Nanjing yunjin shi 南京云锦史(The History of Nanjing Cloud Brocade). Hangzhou: Zhejiang kexue jishu chubanshe 1985.

Zhao Feng 赵丰et al. (comp.), Cheng shi jian jin成是见锦 (Studies of Textile and Weaving Technology (7th – 3rd centuries BCE)). Shanghai: Shanghai Guji chubanshe 2012.

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Sericulture – Agriculture, Silk Industry, Silk Production

An excellent online bibliography for the history of sericulture has been created by the University of Pennsylvania relying on the Hathi Trust Digital Library. It can be found under:
The Online Book Page:

Several entries of early works on sericulture outside of China have been included below.

Anon., Silk: its origin and culture. Florence, Mass.: Nonotuck Silk Company, 1895. [Online:]

Anon., Silk production in China, India, & Europe: from the earliest times to the present day.

London: Printed for Amott & Company, Silk Mercers. St. Paul’s Churchyard, 1865. [Online:;view=1up;seq=3]

Anon., Gründlicher Unterricht für den Bürger und Landmann in der Maulbeerbaum- und Seidenraupenzucht. München: Im königlichen Central-Schulbücher-Verlage, 1829. Deputation für den Seidenbau in Bayern. [Online: ]

Asano, Shûgô and Timothy Clark, The Passionate Art of Kitagawa Utamaro. London: The British Museum 1995. 2 vols.

Bolzani, A. M., Wegweiser zum Seidenbau für Nord-Deutschland, und insbesondere für Preussen. Berlin: In der Vereinsbuchhandlung, 1831. [Online: ]

Borah, Woodrow, Silk Raising in Colonial Mexico. Berkeley, Los Angeles: University of California Press 1943. [Ibero-Americana: 20]

Carlowitz, Georg Heinrich von, Der Seidenbau in Sachsen und angrenzenden Ländern: Eine Volksschrift von einem Freunde des vaterländischen Gewerbfleisses zur Verbreitung gemeinnütziger Kenntnisse. Zwickau: Eigenthum des Vereins zur Verbreitung guter und wohlfeiler Volksschriften, 1844. [Online:;view=1up;seq=5 ]

Field, Jacqueline, Marjorie Senechal, Madelyn Shaw, American silk, 1830-1930: Entrepreneurs and Artifacts. Lubbock, Texas: Texas Tech University Press, 2007.

Franke, Otto, „Zur Geschichte des Keng-chih-t’u: Ein Beitrag zur chinesischen Kunstgeschichte und Kunstkritik“, in Ostasiatische Zeitschrift 3 (1914-15), 169-208.

Golin, Steve, The Fragile Bridge:  The Paterson silk strike, 1913. Philadelphia: Temple University Press, 1988.

Hammers, Roslyn, Pictures of Tilling and Weaving. Art, Labor, and Technology in Song and Yuan China. Hong Kong: Hong Kong University Press, 2011.

Hazzi, Joseph Ritter von (1768-1845), Silk-worms. Washington: Gales & Seaton, 1828. [online:]

Hout, L., Aufmunterung zur Seidenzucht in Deutschland besonders im Grossherzogthume Baden. Mannheim: Druckerei von F. Kaufmann's Witwe, 1832). [Online: ]

Johnson, Emma B., Silk culture in Louisiana and in the southern states. New Orleans: G. Muller, 1884. [Online: ]

Kahle, Friedrich, Der Seidenbau oder Anleitung zu Maulbeerbaumpflanzungen und zur Seidenraupenzucht in Deutschland: ein Handbuch für Landwirthe, Seidenzüchter .... Weimar: A. Tantz, 1837.

Kuhn, Dieter, “Die Darstellungen des Keng-chih-t’u und ihre Wiedergabe in populär-enzyklopädischen Werken der Ming-Zeit, in: Zeitschrift der Deutschen Morgenländischen Gesellschaft 126, no.2, 1976, 336-367.

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